Sunday, January 26, 2014

FUNNY GIRL: LENA DUNHAM'S VOGUE COVER

 
Let me just start by saying that I don't hate Lena, nor I love her.

But thanks to HBO's 'Girls' and a Golden Globes award for best writing in a comedy and musical, this comedian/actress/writer has become a household name. So Vogue didn't waste anytime to put her on the cover. And boy, this cover has raised a topic that's been around for ages now: Air Brushing.

The blogosphere has been swarmed by Dunham's pictures inside the magazine. They say that it's heavily air brushed because she is 'not a Vogue's cover girl size', she doesn't look like herself, yada yada yada. The most ridiculous thing, a blog accused that the bird at the bird shot wasn't real, that Vogue had to post a behind the scene pic on their instagram to proof that it was real. Another blog called Jezebel.com—which by the way super touchy with this topic— offered a $10,000 bounty to anyone who would slip them the unretouched photos from Lena Dunham's Vogue cover shoot. 

Here's my opinion—not that it matters: A little Air Brushing won't hurt anyone. But it is wrong if it's super air brushed like Kate Winslet's  Lancome ad campaign years ago. I personally think that Dunham's Vogue cover is tastefully retouched. She still looks like her in my eyes.

Nevertheless, I love seeing her as the cover. It feels fresh and young. The inside pictures are also amazing. You can see it full here.

OOH by the way, Vogue.com post this short film featuring Lena and Hamish Bowles. Enjoy!

A NEW ERA OF COUTURE: CHANEL SPRING 2014

Karl Lagerfeld has been given many names: Kaiser, Satanist—thanks to the controversy from his use of a verse from the Qur'an in his spring 1994 couture collection for Chanel, God Father of Fashion, and so on. But after this collection, I'm giving him a new name: Revolutionist.

Yes, Lagerfeld shown how couture doesn't have to be a frou-frou-super-fuzzy ball gown. It can be understated, cool, and still understandable for everyone without loosing its appreciation to detail and technique. Couture can also be fun and witty—remember Schiaparelli's lobster dress?  And this collection proof just about it.

The set is pretty simple: a super white set with 2 'couture stairs' that reminds me of the stairs at Coco Chanel's 31 Rue Cambon apartment. Shaggy French pop star Sébastien Tellier and his orchestra serenade the show while the models glided onto the stage. "It's an ice palace, a nightclub on another planet," He described.

The clothes are the one that shocked everyone. A classic Chanel couture tweed suite paired with manny-pack, elbow and knee safety pads? Only Karl can think about that. Another shocking factor are those midriff corsets—the piece of clothing that Coco herself loathe to death and tried to cast off a century ago. Oh that's more. All the looks are paired with SNEAKER—even the 'couture bride' look. But it's not just a regular sneaker, it's a €3,000ish couture sneaker by Massaro (base with python, adorned with lace, pearls, and tweed).

With this collection, couture has just been civilized. Hat's off Uncle Karl.

See the full collection at Nowfashion.com

photo credit: Nowfashion.com

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

LET'S TALK ABOUT MENSWEAR: FALL 2014 FAVS

I don't talk a lot about menswear. I believe men should be two things: dapper and sharp. I usually just search for some cool men #ootd pictures to know what's the trend for men nowadays (running shoes are on the rage. I've been wearing my New Balance for a while instead of loafers). That's it. 

But my great friend, Alex, has been talking about how menswear nowadays is more than just suit and tie. So, I decided to check it myself. And I gotta say, it's very interesting how these designers revolutionize menswear fashion to be super chic and cool without looking too dandy. Here are some of my favorites:
  1. Burberry Prorsum. I've been a fan of Christopher Bailey's Burberry menswear since I saw that infamous fox sweater. This season, he mixes masculine and feminine into this artist-bohemian collection that he named it as 'A Painterly Journey'. It's a bit dandy for my taste, but some of the pieces are too die for.
  2. Louis Vuitton. I've seen LV's menswear collection for, maybe a split second in magazines. They always present a very polish and classic design with a bit of a twist. This season, Kim Jones—LV's menswear designer—took Alpaca, the native of Chile and Peru, as inspiration—seen with the weater and a cashmere coat, woven into blanket stripes for a blouson. He also brought another native of Andean native, the vicuña, rarest of the rare, ludicrously luxurious. So much so, in fact, that the vicuña coat, blouson, and lounging suits will be available only as part of Vuitton's made-to-order service. I think this is a solid collection.
  3. Kenzo. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim continues to bring Americana to French. This season they infuse a french chic with classic American sportswear preferably to Pacific Northwest. It consists of four-button jackets squared at the waist, cropped knitwear, and high straight pants in forest-floor colors of mud and leaf. Classic men with a twist. 
  4. Dolce&Gabbana. This is a shocker. D&G used to design this classic italian men clothes. But this year, they manage to look cool. The sweaters with medieval portrait? GENIUS. They also added these crowns to their models that looked like it was taken from the Game of Thrones set, which is more strange because they admit that they never watch the show. 
  5. Givenchy. The king of cool never fails to make a great collection. The basketball court lined by neon lights and the fishnet on the models' faces? Cool. But then he mix this athletic wear—the muscle tees, trainer-esque trousers, basketball shoes—with something so impeccably design like a sheer lining sweater that resemblance the lining of basketball court? ONLY RICARDO TISCI CAN THINK OF THAT. Once again, hats off to Tisci.

Friday, January 17, 2014

AN OPEN LETTER TO MR. SIMONS

Dear Mr. Raf Simons,

First of all, can I just say that you are one of the designers that I respect the most. You are my hero. I love your designs since I laid my eyes on your Jil Sander Spring 2011 Collection. That collection alone changes my point of view of fashion, that you don't need all of those bells and sequins to make a statement. A simple line with vibrant can say a lot to what you wear.

I write this letter because I respect you. I wanted to see you on top of your game. Yes, maybe I'm just an eighteen-year-old fat guy who doesn't know about fashion as much as you do. But let me just say what's on my mind.

Lately I've been seeing a lot of issue in Dior. Don't get me wrong—your designs still amazing. My issue is with the fit and tailoring for all the celebrities that you dressed. Take Jennifer Lawrence as an example. Her dress she worn on the globes last weekend wasn't right for her figure. It made her look.....unflattering. This is woman is one of the most beautiful people in hollywood, and she is paid by the company millions of dollars to be the face of Dior and to wore your designs to these events. So please, for the sake of fashion and the brand itself, can you dress her in more flattering dresses that actually compliment her body?

I hope you dressed her beautiful for the SAG later this week. I really do. Again, I have to state that you are my fashion hero. Please, don't disappoint me—or at least her.

Respectfully,
Yesaya Ferdinand

P.S.: Please don't hate me.
P.P.S.: By the way, looking forward to your Couture collections for Dior next week.